Fırat Neziroglu Presents:
ANATOLIAN.tEXTILE
NETWORK
Geographically Indicated Fabrics of Turkey
With ancient knowledge derived from Turkey's unique lands...
Wool
Silk
Linen
Cotton
Recycle
Afyon Keçesi - Ankara Sof Kuması - Bayburt Ehramı - Karacakılavuz Dimi Dokuması - Sedefli Battaniye Siirt Battaniyesi
Antep Kutnu - Barıs Ipegi
Ayancık Keteni - Kandıra Bezi - Merzifon Dokuması - Çarasıbası Kesanı
Lefke Bezi - Adana Bezi - Begonvil Bezi - Rize Bezi - Tamzara Dokuması - Tire Beledi Dokuması - Vezirköprü Susuz Bezi - Yesil Üzümlü Dastarı - Sile Bezi - Mersin Okutması - Burdur Dokuması - Iznik Bezi - Nevruz Bezi - Buldan Bezi
Durusu Bezi
ANATOLIAN WEAVING
MAP
ANATOLIAN LOOMS AND FABRICS
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DESIGNS BY FIRAT NEZIROGLU
From Tradition to the Future with the Anatolian Textile Network
Firat Neziroglu is highly skilled in the weaving techniques of Anatolia’s geographically protected fabrics.
After completing his undergraduate education, he began visiting the leading weaving regions in Turkey. During these trips, he worked alongside master weavers, apprenticing at their looms. He also studied fabrics that had been forgotten or were on the verge of disappearing, working to revive them. In his textile designs for the industry, he incorporated these traditional techniques, adapting them for everyday use while meeting modern demands.
INNOVATIONS IN ANATOLIAN LOOMS AND FABRICS
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Firat Neziroglu was the first designer to experiment with converting Anatolia’s basic two-pedal loom system into a four-pedal format. Two-pedal looms typically allow for plain weave and its derivatives. Anatolian fabrics often feature plain weave, weft-faced twill, warp-faced twill, and Panama weaves, with additional striped or plaid patterns created through color effects. However, because the two-pedal loom system limits movement and pattern complexity, the Cicim technique, borrowed from kilim weaving, is used to add patterns to fabrics. In the later stages of Anatolian fabric modernization, the Ajur technique, where warp threads are twisted in groups during weaving, is sometimes seen.
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When Neziroglu converted the two-pedal system into a four-pedal system, he found that the original fabrics of various regions could be woven in double layers, thickened with lining warp and weft without losing their authenticity. This innovation is a result of Neziroglu’s advanced understanding of fabric structure and weaving techniques.
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In a collaboration with the Municipality of Åžile, Neziroglu worked on thickening the geographically indicated Åžile cloth, which is known for being thin and translucent. Previous attempts at thickening had involved using thicker yarn, which resulted in the cloth resembling Buldan fabric. Neziroglu introduced four-pedal looms to Åžile for the first time and designed a double-layer weave, weaving two pieces of Åžile cloth simultaneously and binding them at certain points to create a self-lining double-layer fabric. As a result, the original construction of Åžile cloth remained intact, but it achieved the desired thickness.
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For the geographically indicated Üzümlü Dastar of Fethiye, Neziroglu visited local weavers. He met with the region’s most senior weavers and observed that the looms, which were built with shorter legs than usual, required weavers to bend their knees more than necessary. As a solution, Neziroglu redesigned the seating sections of the looms. He also introduced four-pedal looms to Fethiye and experimented with a new weave, which the Municipality of Fethiye named the FN Dastar.
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In Piraziz village in Giresun, approximately 1000 Karayaka sheep are raised, whose wool is sheared annually. Since the wool is thick, the region had been importing wool from New Zealand, and it was discovered that 70% New Zealand wool and 30% Karayaka wool were being used to make felt. After learning this, Neziroglu traveled to Giresun and produced felt sheets entirely from Karayaka wool, which were then used to design and produce shoes and boots.
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Additionally, as a consultant for Wearable Technologies at the Information Valley, Neziroglu discovered through tests that wool helps protect the human body from the negative effects of urban electricity. With these scientific findings, he continues to design new fabric constructions.
ANATOLIAN WEAVING MAP AND ANATOLIAN TEXTILE NETWORK
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During his 25 years of travels across Anatolia, Neziroglu has enriched the Anatolian Weaving Map with contemporary interpretations of Turkish fabrics, developed through new loom and weaving structures he created using techniques learned from weavers across the country.
Simultaneously, he has been connecting weaving villages in different cities through a network, linking various regions of Turkey, stitch by stitch. For example, geographically indicated fabrics woven by local women under Neziroglu’s supervision in Åžile and Fethiye are sewn into garments by the women of Nevruz Village in Çanakkale.
FN Projects
Kargı Bezi
The cotton fabric produced in Çorum, woven since the time of the Hittites, whitened with the ammonia found in the dung of large livestock, and handwoven using the Fırat Neziroglu Technique.
Miss SUPRANATIONAL / POLAND
Fırat Neziroglu, inspired by the patterns carved into the mountains for Puduhepa, the first queen of peace in history, who sealed the Kadesh Peace Treaty ending the known first war, has incorporated his personal technique and the 'kargı' fabric into the Turkish National Costume.
Begonvil Bezi
Designed by Fırat Neziroglu, drawing inspiration from the colors of the Begonvil flower, two different cotton fabrics have begun to be woven on our looms in Bodrum. Tailored to suit the geography and climate of Bodrum, with a texture that responds to perspiration sensitivity, they exhibit hues reminiscent of Bodrum Begonvilles.
These fabrics, woven in two different textures, are made of cotton weft and cotton warp. The flexible texture, created without the use of Lycra, is designed considering the twist differences in cotton yarns. Fırat Neziroğlu has designed the knitting and color combinations based on Begonvil leaves
Adana Bezi
The distinctive feature of Adana Fabric is the absence of synthetic dyes in its production.
Cotton emerges from the soil in white and various shades of brown. Colored cottons, other than white, are removed, allowing only top-quality white cotton to enter production.
In the production of Adana Cloth, naturally grown colored cotton threads are utilized.
Åžile Bezi
The salt content of Åžile's sea, along with the fine sands on Åžile's shores, guided our ancestors, who filled pots with seawater and boiled them to weave delicate fabrics. They poured a cup of flour into the boiling seawater to prepare a broth. Into this broth, they dipped the threads, strengthening them with flour before weaving them into fine fabrics on looms. These woven fabrics were then washed in the sea at Åžile and dried on the fine Åžile sands. The fine sands became embedded in Åžile fabrics, but it was the threads that had been mixed with flour, met with the sea, and washed, that became Åžile Fabric.
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You know how deeply connected I am to the culture, tradition, and Anatolia. I feel that we are also connected to each other. It makes me very happy.
I set up 100 looms in Åžile and provided weaving training to 200 Åžile women.
The women of Åžile wove and sewed.
I continue to support women's employment in Åžile.
We wove the most beautiful fabrics just like our grandmothers did.
I designed it with respect for Anatolia.
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YeÅŸil Üzümlü Dastarı
In YeÅŸil Üzümlü, the local people weave Dastar Fabric with their hands and eyes on weaving looms locally known as "DÜVEN". Various embroideries are used in weaving Dastar, which is made using three types of threads: warp, weft, and pattern.
Dastar is produced from wool, cotton, linen, and silk. The silk used in Dastar production is obtained from the silkworms raised by the local people. The Dastar produced from silk is called "Bürümcük Dastar". Dastars woven with specific patterns are named as "sucuk yanışlı" (sausage-style), "çomak yanışlı" (stick-style), "deveboynu yanışlı" (camel-neck-style), and "semer yanışlı" (saddle-style). Dastars woven without embroidery are called "yoz dastar". Another factor that adds value to Dastar is the coloring of threads obtained from plants grown in the region.
Fethiye Municipality, in collaboration with Likya Women's Cooperative and Fırat Neziroğlu, is reweaving Geographical Indication marked Dastar fabric considering contemporary needs and traditional weaving methods.
A new Traditional Collection has been created by combining traditional Anatolian garment patterns with Fırat Neziroğlu's modern perspective.
Kandıra Bezi
Kandıra Cloth is one of the highly special products produced in the district of Kandıra in Kocaeli, Turkey. It is a fabric reflecting a weaving tradition dating back to the Roman era. It is known colloquially as 'unbreakable bush' or 'bush tearer', referring to its durability. Apart from its strength, it is also visually stunning.
Kandıra Cloth is one of the fading treasures of Kandıra, revitalized and made suitable for everyday use through contemporary approaches by Fırat Neziroğlu.
Piraziz Köyü Keçesi
In the village of Piraziz in Giresun, there are approximately 1000 Karayaka sheep. I learned that their wool is sheared every year, and due to its thickness, wool is exported from New Zealand. Seventy percent of the wool is soft wool from New Zealand, while thirty percent comes from Karayaka sheep and is used for felting.
Based on this information, I visited Giresun. I worked with the women of Piraziz Village to create felt layers from pure Karayaka sheep wool. From these felt layers, we designed and produced shoes and boots.
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Additionally, in my role as an advisor for Wearable Technologies at the BiliÅŸim Vadisi (Information Valley), I conducted tests and found that wool helps mitigate the negative effects of urban electricity on the human body.
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Beyond just designing patterns and colors, I am researching the benefits of natural fabric fibers for both the environment and humans. Using the insights of science, I continue to design new fabric and felt constructions.
Sof Kumaşı
As the Wearable Technologies Advisor at BiliÅŸim Vadisi (Information Valley) and the Coordinator of Textile Technologies and Design at BahçeÅŸehir University's Creative Industries Center, I set out to study Ankara goats, an endemic species unique to Ankara.
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The Ankara goats, a significant treasure of Anatolian lands, were nearly extinct. Following soil analysis, suitable plants for the goats' nutrition were cultivated, and shepherds were trained for their care. Today, we have 225,000 Ankara Goats.
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I strive to integrate the ancient knowledge inherited from Anatolian lands into daily life, bringing together women artisans from every corner of Anatolia and designing to add value to their efforts.
Nevruz Bezi
Nevruz Village Women's Cooperative, born and raised in a village in Çanakkale Yenice, extends their warm efforts to different corners of Turkey.
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Under the leadership of their mentor, AyÅŸe PirhasoÄŸlu AkbaÅŸ, they present the most significant example to Turkey's Women's Cooperatives with the vision they have created. The management consists solely of local women.
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From the first day I visited Nevruz Village, we aimed to weave a special fabric for Nevruz. With 4 looms set up in the village, I designed a fabric suitable for the climate and geography of Nevruz Village. I named this fabric "Nevruz Cloth." Years later, it will be remembered as the traditional fabric of Nevruz.
Durusu Bezi
The yarns for the fabrics that women will weave on the looms were made of 100% recycled yarns. The uniforms of the 6000 employees working at IGA, which change every year, were collected and sent to the recycling facility in UÅŸak to be recycled into yarn.
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After Fırat Neziroğlu's fabric designs were woven with these recycled yarns, they were put up for sale.
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Women from the villages of Durusu and Akpınar were employed, allowing them to earn a living by weaving fabrics.
Mardin Bezi
The "Mardin Design and Innovation Center" project, with the Mardin Artuklu Municipality as the applicant and Mardin Artuklu University as the project partner, was brought to life thanks to the "Guided Project Support" of the Mardin Development Agency. An approximately 200-year-old monumental building located in the historic site of Mardin was restored and transformed into a design and innovation center. Within this center, design and innovation workshops were established to facilitate production in four areas: weaving, glass, felt, and jewelry.
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Under the leadership of Fırat Neziroğlu, weaving looms were set up in the weaving area, enabling participants with no prior experience in weaving to engage in collaborative work. Participants who completed the weaving training are now progressing towards becoming skilled weavers themselves.
Barış İpeği
Peace silk is one of the most beautiful statements made to the world. In traditional silk production, silkworms are thrown into boiling pots when they enter their cocoons and are killed. However, in our silk thread production, we do not kill the silkworms.
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Additionally, through our Wild Peace Silk project, we respect the natural life of silkworms. We wait for the silkworms to emerge from their cocoons in their natural habitats, and only then do we collect the cocoons left on the trees to produce the silk thread.
